Ripping

La Union

I was paddling back to the breaks when a set came. He ripped the first wave. I was struggling hard to get away from his path. He was splashing cutbacks and floaters. I watched in awe at the speed and skill of this promising short boarder who is undoubtedly one of the best surfers we have in the country. It is only a matter of time before I rip waves just like him, that guy, Luke.