Ripping
Sunday, November 22, 2009
La Union
I was paddling back to the breaks when a set came. He ripped the first wave. I was struggling hard to get away from his path. He was splashing cutbacks and floaters. I watched in awe at the speed and skill of this promising short boarder who is undoubtedly one of the best surfers we have in the country. It is only a matter of time before I rip waves just like him, that guy, Luke.
Fishing & Surfing
Thursday, October 22, 2009
La
Fishing and surfing in La Union happens in exactly the same spot –The Point. It’s the place where surfers catch waves when swells come. When the sea is calm, outriggers troop there to fish. It’s the same as Mavericks at Half Moon Bay, which is not only popular among big wave surfers but also to over-fished rockfish making it a good candidate for a marine protected area. The diehard-Mavs-loving surfers heard of the buzz, and by the looks of it, they will mount a protest and raise a cry as has never been raised before, if conservation pushes through.
Surfing In The Rain
Tuesday, October 20, 2009La Union
Despite the gloomy weather, we were out surfing in the rain. As we sit on the surfboard, raindrops exploded into little droplets that bounced off the surface causing white mist. It enveloped the sea, which, at the time, was as warm as morning piss. It was a pleasant contrast to the cold rain.
Then a set came. We paddled. And rode in the haze.
